123 Okehampton to Friary

This is another refresher that the scout will do in stages, there being so much ground to cover.

All the loud trumpeting made the return of a regular train service to Okehampton seem like a miraculous achievement, but the truth was that a line which had never really become disused was simply reinstated, in large part as an exemplar for the “Restoring Your Railway”—or “Reversing Beeching”—diversion.

Okehampton was a terminus after it first opened but the line soon went on, reaching its furthest extent west at Padstow, on the North Cornwall coast, and south at Turnchapel, outside Plymouth.

Today, Okehampton is a terminus again but 100 miles of dismantled railway lie beyond. This mileage does not include the Plymouth lines serving the Southern’s former main stations, Devonport and Friary; Callington; and the humble N.D. & C.J.R. between Torrington and Halwill.

Mileages: Okehampton to Bere Alston, 22¾; Meldon Junction to Bude, 28¼; Halwill Junction to Padstow, 49¾. Total: 100¾ miles.

April, 2023: B.R. Totems given to the groups campaigning for their lines to be reinstated are exhibited on the Up platform.
All four stations could once have been reached by going in this direction.

In 2022, the scout followed the former main line to Coleford Junction and the old turnpike to Exeter.

The compactness of the town suggests a turn of the century view, but actually this was taken from above in 1932.
The station can be seen at centre right, with the line curving towards the south-west, past the military sidings and beneath Park Road, today’s Tors Road.
This is one of the photographs found in “Okehampton in ’88 and ’91.”
The dismal state of the former double main line in April, 2023. The rails were only visible in places when the scout rode this way in August, 2025.

Meldon Quarry

Quite by surprise and at first shrouded in a cloak of mystery, the quarry was reactivated in 2025 by Meldon Aggregates, Ltd., which firm has a lease from Aggregate Industries. The mobile plant and machinery brought in reminded those at Christow of what happened at Ryecroft Quarry in 2000.

Meldon Viaduct

The viaduct seen in April, 2023.
Cyclists often move as fast as the trains once did: there was always a 20 m.p.h. restriction. +
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Meldon Gorge in April, 2023. The dam is at centre. +
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Meldon Junction

These photos were taken in February, 2025.

Modern-day passengers, perhaps expecting to have a scenic journey between Exeter and Okehampton, often remark about the line being in a green tunnel for much of the way. Actually, the most majestic scenery was always enjoyed beyond Okehampton, where the line sweeps down from its summit at 950 feet on the slopes to the north and west of Dartmoor.

A cyclist knows that he is over the hump, once the highest point on the Southern system.

As if further to emasculate this highly engineered railway, the trail makers have included meanders, possibly to give the feel of a country lane.
The sun came out just as the scout stopped to look at St. Thomas à Becket’s Church in Sourton.

Lake Viaduct

It is not known whether this was the first view passengers once had of Brent Tor. +
Unlike others along the line, this hut on the approach to Bridestowe was boarded shut. The scout did not know until he developed the film what the flash had exposed, after he had poked the camera through a hole. If he’d seen the open window, he might have realized that this was home to bats.

Concrete Huts for Track Workers

The first of several hundred pre-cast re-inforced concrete huts for the use of Permanent Way staff throughout the system has been made at the Exmouth Junction Concrete Depot, and was placed in position on the incline leading to Exeter Central Station in the early hours of Sunday July 28th.
Weighing eight tons the complete hut was conveyed to the site on a well wagon and off-loaded on to its permanent position by steam crane.
The hut is fitted with a fireplace, tool rack and, for messing purposes, a table and forms. It is completely rain proof, and the interior walls have an absorbent finish to prevent condensation. The frames of the three windows and door are painted in the S.R’s standard colour of green.
The huts are being built to the design of the Western Divisional Engineer (Mr. W.H. Shortt) under the supervision of the Resident Engineer at the Concrete Depot, Mr. G.E. Bedford, and their provision is a further indication of the progressive policy of the Company in regard to the accommodation of their outdoor staff.

From The S.R. Magazine, September, 1946

Rattlebrook Peat

Bridestowe

Between Worting Junction and Devonport Junction, the maximum permissible speed for loco-hauled trains was 85 m.p.h. This was practically meaningless once Okehampton was reached. A few short unrestricted sections gave no advantage and the maximum speed from Bridestowe to Ford was 40 m.p.h.

Between Bridestowe and Lydford was one of the few lengths of line with no earthworks. This was probably eradicated by the farmer and the trail has been made along the original course.
The main line, seen at the top of the picture, with Lydford Viaduct at left, was still Southern-owned in 1947, but it would not be for much longer.
The castle and St. Petrock’s are obvious.
The old main line is right beside the road leading to Lydford Station, which was about a mile and a half from the Post Office in the village.

Lydford

The broad gauge Launceston Branch opened in 1865. The station buildings at the then Lidford were on the Up platform, used by trains going towards Plymouth.

In 1874, the terminus of the L. & S.W.R. line from Okehampton was built next to the earlier station. New buildings were erected on each side of the enlarged station and the original building became a waiting room on the island platform.

From old surveys, it appears that the new line took part of the G.W. goods yard and restricted access to the shed. This may have become a transfer shed for broad and standard gauge wagons.

In 1876, a connection was made between the two lines and the South Western exercised running powers by working its trains through to Devonport over a single, mixed gauge branch line. This was unsatisfactory and in 1890 a new double line between Lydford and Devonport was opened. It crossed the G.W. line at Wringworthy and served a new Tavistock Station.

There was no connection between the two standard gauge lines at Lydford until one was installed in 1943 as a wartime precaution. Three sidings were added between the two lines and another five beside the Southern line blocked the road to the station frontage.

Coordination and economy were achieved by the South Western taking over the station and erecting a joint signal box on the island platform.

The exposed western flank of Dartmoor saw heavy snow in harsh winters, with drifts blocking the railway. An old Relief Station Master told the scout of the time he got away from Lydford on the last train to get through. Others told of being marooned there. Snowdrifts were so deep that after the plough had cleared the lines on one occasion, two trains passed, each unseen by the other. Or so the story went.

The Launceston Branch closed to passengers in 1962 and the main line was closed between Meldon and Bere Alston in 1968.

Staff at Christow frequently dismiss claims that the British railway system was far too large and that there was much unnecessary provision. This charge should more properly be laid against roads, particularly the vast amount of space that has to be provided for vehicles not moving.

But, in the case of the Plymouth, Devonport & South Western Junction, which built the line from Lydford to Devonport, it has to be admitted that a more unified railway would have doubled the Launceston Branch between Wringworthy and Lydford, and would have had joint stations at Mary Tavy and Brentor. A junction would have been necessary at Wringworthy but there would have been one less bridge.

Brentor

Channel Four’s “Losing Track” chapter which shows Brentor and the war memorial in the village comes to mind.

As the scout took the road between Brentor and Mary Tavy, he thought that St. Michael’s would not have been seen from the train here, as the line is in the dip. +
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Mary Tavy

In this 1949 aerial view, the straight Station Road can be seen dropping down from the village and turning to cross the main line.
An Evans Transport lorry thunders along the A386 towards the junction of Station Road.
Few today wonder how it occurred that a high capacity, guided transport system, operating in its own highly-engineered reservation, fell into ruin and road haulage gained supremacy.
A 30 m.p.h. restriction applies through the village from just ahead, for about half a mile. Not long after he set off towards Okehampton, the scout saw an articulated lorry laden with huge concrete “Lego” blocks overtake a car towing a caravan.

Wringworthy

The P.D. & S.W. was taken across the existing Great Western line by a slightly skewed, very long, double line arch. The bridge involved much more masonry than would have been required for a girder bridge, but steel would have needed more maintenance in the long run.

The scout had been to Wringworthy Farm twice before but had not taken photographs of the bridge. The first visit was in the late 1970s. This time, the owner was a little wary of allowing photographs and asked to see where they would be posted. The scout sent a wire on his return home and the owner kindly agreed to his photo being published for the few readers of this column.

This was the only photo the scout could take without getting his feet wet.

Before the new line was opened in 1890, South Western trains had reached Plymouth by way of the Launceston Branch, which had been made dual gauge in 1876.

Higher Hazeldon Bridge, seen from the turnpike. Beyond it is Wilminstone, whose name the quarry took.

A little further on, a right turn leads to Old Exeter Road, which climbs alongside the railway. A path leads up to the track and this continues past the former quarry’s private siding and loading plant towards Tavistock.

Wallabrook Viaduct

The cutting beyond Exeter Lane Bridge has been filled in and the path climbs up beneath a now low arch to rejoin Old Exeter Road. +

The idiot headmaster of Kelly College, the lower tier public school where farmers send their sons to have them made semi-literate, has built his house on the track. The length of line that adjoined the grounds was bought by the school. A Kelly Old Boy, a pal of the scout, used to be distracted from conjugating his Latin verbs by passing trains.

The track can be regained part way down Old Exeter Road, whence the path continues to the station.

Tavistock (North)

Tavistock’s two stations became North and South after nationalization.

Bannawell Street Viaduct

This magnificent aerial view of the viaduct was taken in 1928. At left is Glanville Road. Bannawell Street, Taylor Square, Drake Road and the station approach stand out clearly. The station buildings are just off picture at right.
The rock cutting which continues from Glanville Road to beyond Launceston New Road Bridge is obvious in this 1928 view.
The viaduct is just in view at left and is followed by Glanville Road, Old Launceston Road and a high accommodation bridge. New Launceston Road is seen climbing from the town at bottom right.

Bernard Mills kindly provided three photographs of diesel trains for the reverses of the two B.R. totems made as publicity props. The following one was not used.

A single dwelling is built on the formation by the former Callington Road Bridge. This obstacle, replacing the once low bridge and the housing at the station were enough to rule out putting the line back to North Station, if ever a line is built at all from Bere Alston.

Callington Road Bridge

The O.S. has it as Abbotsfield Road Bridge.

Shillamill Viaduct

The Tavistock Canal passes beneath the viaduct, which spans the River Lumburn.

“Echoes at Shillamill.”

More photos of the canal may be found in “Dartmoor Circular.”

Shillamill Tunnel

A short film taken from the front of an engine in 1899.

A little further towards Bere Alston, a bridleway which drops down to the line affords a splendid view of the Tamar Valley.

Calstock Viaduct is at centre. Above in the distance is Caradon Hill, marked by its transmitter, and to the right is Kit Hill. The course of the main line is in the trees beyond the hedge. +
Caradon Hill is more obvious in this zoom shot. +
The scout was actually going up the bridleway. He took this shot because it was closer to the view that once could have been had from the carriage window. +
Just below where the bridleway joins a lane is a bridge.
A footpath leads to the next bridge, Bunkers Hill “A.”

The story of Bunkers Hill “B,” and the plans to reinstate the line to Tavistock, was told in detail in connection with Greenwall Lane Bridge on the Teign Valley Branch, which was about to be demolished in 2013. It was then more than two decades since the first feasibility study was done. Now, more than three decades have passed.

Bere Alston

A ride along the Callington Branch.

The war memorial in Bere Alston has a particularly sad face, for it commemorates the ten men run over by a train at Bere Ferrers. They had answered the call of empire and travelled half way round the world. The soldiers had been told that rations could be collected from the brake van at the first stop, Exeter. But the train was checked by signals at Bere Ferrers and men alighted on both sides, unaccustomed to the British system. The Driver of a Down express did not see them because of the curve and his train killed the men. +

Bere Ferrers

Tavy Bridge

After descending to the tip of the Bere Peninsula, the line crosses the Tavy estuary just before it joins the Tamar. The speed had been raised to 55 m.p.h. over the bridge but has since been brought back to 40 again.

Hear the sound of a train crossing the bridge, now more slowly than they once did.

The bridge seen from Warleigh Point. +
The Royal Albert Bridge and its young neighbour come into view from the train window on the Bere Peninusla as trains approach Tavy Bridge. This is the view from Warleigh Point. +

Tamerton Foliot

The station was opened in 1898, after the line had been built, and took the spelling of the village as it was: Tamerton Foliott. The accommodation bridge that had been built was able to span the platforms.

St. Mary’s Church in the village was a mile and a half from the station.

Tamerton Bridge

This 1952 aerial view of the Bush Radio Works at Ernesettle, built next to the post-war satellite settlement, also captures the two bridges and part of the line coming from Bere Ferrers. Tamerton Foliot Station can be seen near the end of the embankment on Tamerton Lake.
Warleigh Wood and Warleigh Point are at top centre.
A footpath leads from Ernesettle Lane to Warren Point, passing beneath the line here.
Just beyond Warren Point, the line sweeps alongside the water and the 1961 and 1859 bridges come into view from the train window. +
This was taken in June, 2014, when the sun was much higher. The Royal Albert was being painted, hence the shrouds. +
A distant view of the former R.N.A.D. Ernesettle, now Defence Munitions Plymouth.
The railway passes on the water’s edge and there are siding connections, with lines entering the storage bunkers, which are unlikely ever to be used again.
The scout used to be most fascinated, when he was a frequent traveller on the line in the late 1970s, by the narrow gauge railway which passed beneath the main line and went out onto the jetty, and which followed the line towards Devonport before curving away out of sight to serve bunkers buried in the hill.
The ministry and sprawling development wiped out the hamlets of Lower Ernesttle and Little Ernesettle. It is not known what happened to Higher Ernesettle, which vanished from the map around the turn of the 19th century. +
One of the bunkers and a little of the railway layout is glimpsed from the train.
The South Western was taken beneath the second approach span of the Royal Albert Bridge, which had been opened 30 years earlier.
The scout has been through the tubes of Brunel’s masterpiece and been part way up the top of the tube on the Cornish side. The ladders have since been removed as they partly obscured the inscriptions at each end.

St. Budeaux (Victoria Road)

The shops on the now very wide Wolseley Road, which once swung from where the bus is seen to cross the railways at right. The shop with the red front was formerly the Trelawney Hotel.

St. Budeaux Junction

The section of the South Western main line closed in 1964 was carried on an embankment at left, where the cars are parked, before crossing Wolseley Road and plunging into a rock cutting at right. The O.S. marks Wolseley Road first as New Saltash Road and then Saltash Road.

Weston Mill Halt

When the P.D. & S.W.J. entered what is now the City of Plymouth, until it reached Devonport, its construction was mostly across open ground. The line was taken across Weston Mill lake on a high embankment, with a bowstring girder bridge spanning the water. Eventually, the swamp was drained and Weston Mill Drive, today’s St. Budeaux Bypass, was taken beneath the bridge.

Camel’s Head Halt

The railway’s former southern boundary wall remains at the end of Erith Avenue.

Ford

Ford Viaduct

From Blockhouse Park (Mount Pleasant Redoubt), one of the highest points in the city, the Great Western main line viaduct can be seen. The Southern’s has long gone but a little of it can be seen by looking very closely at the photograph near the top of the park. +

Ford Tunnel

Some years ago, the scout had walked through the tunnels with a couple of pals. They were ungated, or the gates were open, at the time. A little way into Ford, the scout had pointed to the vertical white lines on the walls which indicated the position of Devonport Tunnel. At that very moment, rather like the experience on the London Underground, a train was heard passing above. There were corresponding white lines in Devonport Tunnel.

It is remarkable, considering the city environment, that only two buildings are directly above the tunnels.

Albert Road Halt

The P.D. & S.W.J. must have taken advantage of a patch of open space to make a gap between the two tunnels. There was just enough room for the halt, another of those opened in 1906. It closed in 1947.

Devonport Park Tunnel

The tunnels brought to mind the restrictions on Great Western coaching stock, particularly the wide-bodied type, working over this route in an emergency and the junior clerk was sent to find the “Notice Shewing Arrangements for the Diversion of Through Trains to Alternative Routes in cases of Emergency,” a copy of which languishes in the office at Christow.

The relevant section is reproduced here.

Under the “Rolling Stock” heading in the Teign Valley and Moretonhampstead branches diversionary route instructions is the short “No restrictions.”

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Devonport (King’s Road)

The station was opened in 1876 as a terminus, when trains worked over the Great Western’s Launceston Branch and the main line from Tavistock Junction to Devonport Junction. In 1890, with the opening of the P.D. & S.W.J., it became a through station and Down became Up.

Stonehouse Pool Branch

The line was opened with the station and was the South Western’s bid to capture some of the transatlantic trade, but without the Royal Mail contract held by the Great Western at Millbay. Ocean Quay Station was opened but the traffic never developed. Passenger traffic ceased in 1910 and the line was officially closed in 1970.

The ladies eating their lunch in the sun were asked if they minded being included in the scout’s photo.
He went back after he’d taken this shot and said that there had been a tunnel behind them that the line had dropped down from the station to Ocean Quay, where transatlantic liners were once serviced by lighters. The scout chatted to them, first mistaking them for mature students and then teachers; they were catering staff. One asked: “Where’s your helmet?” To which the scout replied: “I’m of the generation that doesn’t give a shit.”
Rails once ran to the end of the dreadful Ocean Court, seen at left of centre. The design of these apartments was supposed to resemble the raked bridge and fore part of a liner’s superstructure. To the right, beyond, can be seen the former Royal William Victualling Yard and in the distance at far right is Plymouth Breakwater. +

Devonport Junction

Trains first came from Waterloo via North Road. When the Friary terminus was opened in 1891, London trains approached the junction, as at Cowley Bridge, from the opposite direction.

To be continued.

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